The finished fusee cones and arbors now have their winding squares milled. After this is done the squares are tempered to eliminate wear from constant winting.


These pix show the mainspring barrel arbors as they are made and fit to the plates and their barrels. Each has winding squares milled and drilled for the click retaining pins. These winding squares are not used to wind the clock for operation--that is a function of the fusees. They are used to provide an initial mainspring pre-load with the fusees fully run down and locked.

B71 B72

The completed fusee and mainspring barrel assemblies are "planted in their plate positions.


The mainspring barrel click wheels and clicks are made and fit. Once the clock is set up and the initial preload is placed on the mainsprings, the barrel arbors never move again, but the clicks retain all of the mainspring power when the fusees are wound, therefore I always add a second screw at the tip of the clicks to help relieve the pressure. Most bracket clocks had only the mounting screw and sometimes a click spring.


The center wheel arbor is made and the pinion cut, as well as the center wheel which is "blanked out" after the teeth are cut. The arbor is fit to the plate and has its finishing dimensions cut, the wheel is mounted, and the unit is planted in the plates with the time fusee. Only the mainspring barrels and fusees are easy to plant in the plates because they don't have to mesh properly with any other wheels. All others have to be planted to proper depth with each other.


With the center wheel made and planted we can finish making the time train wheels and their arbors. The center wheel has a predetermined location within the clock as does the escape wheel (the one with pointy teeth), so once they are planted in position the remaining wheel that lies between them must be planted to the proper operating depth.


The escape wheel is laid out on a steel template and the deadbeat pallet is marked out and cut from the steel. It is then finished to proper operating dimensions, tempered to prevent wear, and highly polished to reduce friction.


The pallet is installed on its arbor and the rest of the crutch assembly is made. This is the part of the clock that you hear ticking and that keeps the pendulum in motion.

The time train mainspring makes the wheels turn, the last in the series being the pointy-toothed escape wheel. The pallet rocks between the pointy teeth (tick-tock) and continues to be pushed in each direction by them. This pushng action will keep the pendulum moving back and forth.


Once the pallet and crutch assembly is finished the backcock is made and fit to the rear plate. With this done the pendulum is the next item on the agenda.


All of the pendulum components are made and assembled, however, the pendulum bob (ball) was purchased.


The pendulum cannot be properly fitted until the regulating assembly is made. This clock's rate can be adjusted from the dial and the parts that make this happen are now made.


Once we know exactly where the train is planted we can make and install the retaining power lever. This gathers up several teeth when the clock is operating and compresses the retaining power spring internal to the fusee. When you wind the clock and remove tension (power) from the fusee this mechanism keeps the clock ticking.


The fusee iron, which prevents you from overwinding the fusee, and its assembly is made and installed on the front plate.

The cable is installed, the clock is wound, and it is now ticking on its own!

We now have to make the parts that mount the hands and allow you to see what time it is -- the motion works.


The daisy-wheel motion works used on this clock are not conventional and were never used by other makers or industry on production clocks. I was intrigued by the design and decided to use it merely because I could and it is a lot of fun to do new things. It was definitely a learning experience to incorporate other functions around it, such as the calendar and snail mechanisms.


The semi-finished assembly is installed. The minute and hour hands can now be made and installed and will function. Many finishing operations still need to be made to this assembly as work continues on the clock.


Now that the motion works is ready to receive hands it's time to make them. I have a particular style that I'm partial to that borrows from several different older hand styles. I also like to incorporate my name in one of the hands as a personal trademark. I used the hour hand on this clock and the seconds hand on my tallcase. The hands are drawn and applied to the steel and then cut out by hand with a jeweler's saw. They are then filed, sanded, polished, and tempered to a deep blue. I've already completed some of the work to the dial so I know what the lengths should be. Several stages of construction are always going on at the same time when designing a clock because dimensions are interdependent. The last pix here shows all of the hands that will be used--minute, hour, date, and the selector/adjusters.

B146 B151

The dial plate and chapter rings are cut out and the initial engraving is started using the lathe and mill. The components are fit to the movement and the hands are mounted. It is starting to look like a clock!


With the dial begun as well as the pendulum regulating assembly, it comes time to make the parts that connect them--the regulator hand, shaft, and cam. These pictures show the cam which will lift the pendulum when turning the hand.


The calendar wheel is made. The driving/advance wheels are made and fit to the hour wheel and plate post. Note that the jumper that keeps the calendar wheel in position is not present. This jumper is attached to the rear of the dial plate.



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